The Art of Pin-Set Gemstones: Behind the Scenes of Handmade Jewelry
A pile of pin-set seed pearls for a new design sits on Michelle Pajak-Reynolds’s jewelry workbench. Photo credit: Michelle Pajak-Reynolds
In today’s fast-paced, machine-made world, purely handmade jewelry has become a rare treasure. Every detail in my work carries with it the love, patience, and tradition of artisanal craftsmanship. One of the signature design elements in my collections is the use of pin-set gemstones—a centuries-old technique reimagined with a contemporary sensibility.
Pin-setting is where the poetry of jewelry-making comes alive. Each gem bead or pearl is set on a single pin and often clustered in shimmering groups that recall the organic beauty of grapes and berries. These clusters form intricate textures and patterns, transforming raw materials into luminous works of art.
One-of-a-kind Pellia bracelet from Michelle Pajak-Reynolds’s Voyageuse Collection featuring 44.41 carats (total weight) pin-set vesuvianite, recycled 18k gold, oxidized sterling silver and a hand forged clasp. Photo credit: JuleImages
Unlike conventional settings that lock a stone into place, pin-setting allows every gemstone to move freely. This subtle mobility lets light dance across the surface from every angle, creating a captivating shimmer that feels alive against the skin. It’s a technique that not only elevates the brilliance of each stone but also brings extraordinary versatility—whether it’s a delicate chain accented with pin-set gems, chandelier earrings that ripple with pearls, or bold statement necklaces composed of thousands of sparkling stones. With pin-setting, the gemstones themselves become the star of the design, while the precious metal serves as an elegant, understated frame.
The process begins long before the first pin is made. I carefully sort and select each gemstone bead, honoring its natural variations in color, shape, and size. Like assembling a mosaic, every stone must harmonize with its neighbors, creating balance and rhythm within the final piece.
Once selected, the gems are set one by one. A precious metal pin—finished with a tiny ball at its end—is threaded through each bead. With hand tools, I shape the remaining wire into a delicate loop, securing it to the jewelry’s framework. The tail of the wire is then wrapped, tightened, and trimmed, with every sliver of excess metal saved for refining and recycling. This process is repeated hundreds, sometimes thousands of times, until the design comes to life.
There’s a quiet rhythm in this repetition—a meditative flow that connects me to the centuries of artisans who came before. No two pieces are ever the same. Each pin-set jewel carries its own subtle variations, becoming a wearable work of art that reflects both the uniqueness of the stones and the intimacy of the hand that set them.
Michelle Pajak-Reynolds’s one-of-a-kind Nimue necklace from her Undina Collection featuring 270 carats (total weight) raw blue kyanite accented with 2,208 oxidized recycled sterling silver pins. Photo credit: JuleImages
Explore my curated collection of pin-set gemstone jewelry, where each design celebrates the gem’s luminous beauty and timeless enchantment.
